When I first emigrated to Canada, I settled in East Vancouver. For the first month I never left that area, and it rained continuously.
I came to the sad conclusion that Canada was a soggy, dark place, devoid of sunshine, beaches and forests.
Then one day the sun came out, and a friend took me to Stanley Park. It took my breath away, and even now (13 years later) it can still take my breath away. Stanley Park is a magnificent park in downtown Vancouver, and the Stanley Park Seawall provides an ideal way to experience the park while also enjoying a spectacular cycling experience with great views, plus the opportunity to stop at many fun spots.
What is the Stanley Park Seawall, and Where is it?
The Seawall is not really a Seawall at all – come to think of it, I don’t know what a Seawall is. A wall to hold out the sea? That would be a dyke, wouldn’t it? In any event, this is much more than a dyke. It’s a multi-use path for human-powered activities of all kinds: cycling, jogging, walking, skating, wheel-chairing, and pushing strollers. It’s also suitable for all ages, so this is definitely a place to take the whole family for a bike ride.
The Seawall is located in the downtown core of the beautiful city of Vancouver. It begins at the convention centre on Burrard Inlet (at Coal Harbour), loops around the magnificent Stanley Park, does an impressive sweep around False Creek, then winds past Granville Island and ends up at Kitsilano Beach Park. This route offers diverse and awesome views, which make it seem a lot longer that the 22 km (13.7 miles) it actually is.
This post deals only with the part of the Seawall that loops around Stanley Park, which is 8.8 km (5.5 miles) long. This is the original part of the Seawall, started in 1917 and completed in 1980.
HOW to Cycle on the Stanley Park Seawall
The path has two sections: one for cyclists and one for walkers/joggers. Stick to the correct one, and stay right when you’re not passing people.
Cyclists on one side, walkers/joggers on the other –
and the indecisive in the middle …
Cycling and inline skating are one-way most of the way, and cyclists and skaters must travel in a counterclockwise direction. Just follow the signs.
Also, I recommend that you get off your bike when the signs tell you to. There’s a good reason for these signs: they occur at three congested sections where you could knock over vulnerable people, such as small children.
In general, be alert and keep your trigger finger on your bicycle bell, as unwary children, confused tourists or daydreaming locals could wander onto the bike path at any moment. Or of course you could encounter one of those people who think it’s a brilliant idea to stand in the middle of a crowded bike path with their arms spread wide …
What to See and Do (apart from cycling)
Wildlife: Depending on when you go, expect to see herons, seagulls and even eagles in the sky. In the sea you may be lucky enough to spot a seal or two. Even whales have been spotted, but they are rare indeed.
Harry Jerome Statue: Harry Jerome was a Canadian track and field Olympian, who died tragically young at 42 from a brain aneurysm, in 1982. The statue serves as a permanent reminder of a great athlete who competed in three Olympics and set seven world records.
The Harry Jerome statue doesn’t really come out of this roller blader’s head – it’s just tricky to get the framing right when you’re taking a photograph from a moving bike, while avoiding crashing into any of the other 50,000 cyclists.
Photo by David Davies
Totem poles: Next to the Brockton Oval cricket pitch are eight totem poles. They were brought to Stanley Park starting in the early 1920s, and are now the single biggest tourist attraction in BC. No wonder, given the depth of history they contain – as you will discover if you park your bike and spend some time there.
The Brockton Point Lighthouse: This famous lighthouse is right on the seawall, so you can’t miss it. There has been a lighthouse at this spot since 1890. The lighthouse is situated right in front of a magnificent view of Burrard Inlet.
Water Park at Lumberman’s Arch: A fun attraction for those with very young kids; with washrooms situated conveniently right beside it.
Lions Gate Bridge (which goes to Vancouver’s North Shore): Later you cycle under this impressive bridge.
Interesting rocks (yes, really): There are some great geological sights. On your left, ice cold water drips down dank, dramatic slabs of rock that look as if they’ve been there since the Stone Age. On your right, Burrard Inlet and the impressive Siwash Rock.
Beaches: there are several beautiful beaches in Stanley Park. The Seawall naturally runs right by them (this is one of the cool things about Seawalls). This is Third Beach, where many cyclists stop to cool off. There are usually quite a number of bikes locked up along the fringes of this beach. So remember your swimsuit and a big old bicycle lock. There are also washrooms and change rooms just up the steps from the Seawall.
Second Beach Pool: For years this was my favourite part of Stanley Park. I have spent many happy hours playing with my kids in this huge, heated salt water pool, which sparkles in blue splendour beside English Bay. The pool is so large it’s impossible to do it justice with a photo. It’s truly a magnificently scenic pool, and has some fun slides too, so it’s very well worth a stop.
There is parking for bikes just outside, so it’s easy to stop for a refreshing swim (during the summer months when the pool is open). There is also a concession stand, as well as washrooms with change rooms and showers.
Play Park: There’s a huge play park just past the Second Beach Pool, where cyclists with kids can take a break.
Lost Lagoon: This is a beautiful lagoon that is home to a large number of ducks and geese. It’s close to the burial ground of the First Nations Princess Pauline Johnson, who is the only person buried in Stanley Park. It was the princess who named Lost Lagoon: apparently she named it because at one time the tide would come in from Coal Harbour and fill the lake, and when the tide went out again the lake would be lost.
Food: There are concessions at the Totem Poles, Lumbermen’s Arch, Second Beach Pool and Third Beach. The concessions serve the usual fried horrors, so if you care about your health (and if you’re on a bike, you probably do), take a healthy snack along in your saddlebag.
There are also restaurants inside the park, although these are mainly of the fine dining variety, and largely unsuitable for sweaty cyclists. These include the Prospect Point Café, The Teahouse at Ferguson Point, the Stanley Park Bar and Grill at the Stanley Park Pavilion and The Fish House.
Denman Street: Just outside the park is Denman Street, which features a large variety of food choices, including sushi, pizza, falafel and cupcakes. My personal favourite is to lock the bikes up on the sidewalk outside the Milestones on Denman Street at Davie, just outside the park. From a patio table I can keep an eye on the bikes (when not admiring the view), and order a glass of wine and something to eat. After all, one of the points of cycling is to be able to eat delicious food with impunity.
If you prefer your liquid with caffeine, you can venture just a short way up Denman Street to Delaney’s Coffee Shop, which has outdoor seating (limited) where you can keep an eye on your locked up bike.
When to Go (and when NOT to Go)
Most things in life have a catch, and sadly, the Stanley Park Seawall is no exception. The catch here is that the trail is so wonderful that you have to choose your time wisely if you want to avoid being driven insane by other users.
Unfortunately, a lovely weekend afternoon in summer is the very last time you should cycle the Stanley Park Seawall – even though it’s probably the time you’re going to feel most tempted to do so.
The problem is that you will have to share the trail with thousands of other cyclists with the same idea – not to mention roller bladers, skateboarders, pedestrians who don’t know the difference between a cycling trail and a walking trail, large groups of tourists posing for photos while standing dead centre on the bike trail, and so on. This can be a truly horrible experience.
Obviously it’s best to bike the Stanley Park Seawall when there are fewer people with the same idea. On the weekends, your only hope is very early in the morning. During the work week, you can often get a decent ride during the morning without having to get out of bed at 4.00 a.m. During the winter the numbers of fellow users drops dramatically, so this is generally a better time to enjoy the Stanley Park Seawall (on one of those rare days when it’s not raining).
And if you really want to bike it in peace, you might consider doing so at night, when the views are also magnificent …
Bike Rentals near the Stanley Park Seawall
Near Denman and Georgia Streets there are several bike rental shops. As I am lucky enough to be a local, I have never rented from any of them, so cannot recommend any one in particular. You are unlikely to go wrong with any of the established bike rental shops: Bay Shore Bike Rentals (http://www.bayshorebikerentals.ca/) at 745 Denman Street; English Bay Bike Rentals (http://www.englishbaybikerentals.com/) at 1754 Davie Street; or Spokes Bicycle Rentals (http://vancouverbikerental.com/) conveniently located at 1798 W Georgia Street (at Denman), which just happens to be right at the entrance to Stanley Park.
All in all, a great cycling experience for the whole family, suitable for beginners, and almost entirely flat. The Stanley Park Seawall is one of those bike rides that should be on everyone’s bucket list.